ESXENCE 2018

Esxence 2018 – the 10th edition is over. For me it was the second time to partecipate to this wonderful event of art of perfumery and even my time was limited I’m so plenty of exhiting emotions its difficult to orientate in. What I love about these kind of events is the human contact and the possibility to meet persons behind every creation, listen their stories and thoughts  why and how their fragrances have born.

More detailed reviews will wait you in next days when I’ll test perfumes properly, but I would like to mention quickly the ones that moved me more.

MILLER ET BERTAUX – one of my favorite brands ever,  presented their Tulsivivah ! – a refreshing aromatic tribute to India, and to the connection between green nature and humanity, developed around tulsi, commonly known as holy basil with citruses and sandalwood base. For me was new also their Indian Study /Santal +++ - it’s a must for all sandalwood lovers, I personally am totally in love.

UERMI –  I re- discovered the whole brand. I loved a lot already Cècile Zarokian’s creation for them – OR+White, OR+Cashmere, OR+Ange, OR+Kanabo. The new launch is OR+Damask, an explosion of roses created by a big name in perfumery – Maurice Roucel. It definitely a deserves special post.

NISHANE – a Turkish house known for working with precious essence, presented the story of Little Price. Two fragrances, two different concepts. Vain&Naïve- a tender rose, as the one Little Prince loved; B-612 – aromatic and woody with lavender , cedar and sandalwood –  the feeling of home, as it was B 612 for Little Prince, the asteroid he was from. PS!The last one is one of my personal favorites from the fair.

MASQUE MILANO – (Homage to) Hemingway, one of the best vetiver based fragrances I have smelt. Features both – Haitian and Java vetiver lightened with freshness of rhubarb and ginger. The Nose behind this is Fanny bal – a young artist, the creator of Sale Gosse for Frederic Malle, for naming one, definitely a rising star in perfumery.

EXTRIT D'ATELIER – the brand was new for me, but I loved their concept a lot and the most important I liked a lot their fragrances. They are four in total, inspired of the atmosphere and work of artisans. My favorite was Maitre Couturier – an elegant fougere with lavender, aldehydes and woody notes, and the new launch – Maitre Ceramiste – a curious multilayered creation, powdery, dusty, milky, bit metallic and mineral – definitely one to look for.

L'ORCHESTRE PARFUM  - fragrances inspired of music experiences from different places all around the world. It was a wonderful discovery to test perfumes while listening the music that gave the start to them, it was a Music of Fragrance. I would like to point out one that touched me specially  - Rose Trombone – the solo of trombone in dark jazz club, an insolence rose with woody boozy base.

ATELIER DES ORS – presented their new White Line, composed by three perfumes, inspired by paintings of Gustav Klimt, by luminosity, by white and gold.

SAMMARCO – no new launches and no need of them. The mastery of perfumery is presented  in all their natural authentic and daring fragrances. PS! I discovered for myself Ariel, that I had tested in run in past – deeply feminine, powdery, tender, but animalic.  It’s a perfume I would like to come back with a special post.

DUSITA – Even without new launches, Dusita is the TOP of perfumery.  All fragrances are genuine artistic presentations, beautiful as their creator Pissara Umavijani. The newest fragrance is Erawan. It was presented already at Pitti last year, but for me it was new. It’s complex as only simplicity can be. Green and dusty but also creamy, bread-like with aromatic herbs, hay and lily of the valley. It would be better not to stop on notes but just enjoy the experience with wearing it.

GABRIELLA CHIEFFO – presented Lattedoro (golden milk), a comforting gourmand fragrance with vanilla, milky notes, sandalwood and coconut. I detected mostly coconut and being honest it didn’t impress me a lot. But I take the possibility to mention one previous fragrances of this house I truly love – Acquasala, a marine fragrance that also not-marine-fragrance-lovers love.

DFG 1924 – no news and not needed, as all their fragrances are launched last year. It’s a new perfume house born in 2014, but with solid roots. Their perfumer Roberto Pasquale Dario brought in life ancient  formulas of  brands forefather Dalla Favera Giustino who was the founder of family’s pharmacy and creator of original formulas at 1924. I would like to point out my personal favorites  - La Fontana di Titti – a tender musky floral; Il Mercante dei sogni – fabulous woody powder of green;

D.S.& DURGA – Not a new launch, but new for me – Burning Barbershop – an immediate love that made me use all my free skin on arms for spraying it all over. A wonderful  relaxing and invigorating cuddle of lavender, vanilla and mint.

Obviously there was much much more to discover. It’s just a little bite of the whole experience Esxence offered.